Although the most convenient way to travel to any crag is by car, Almscliff is one of those that can be reached relatively easily by public transport. Catch the train for Weeton at either Leeds station, Burley Park station or Headingley station (the latter two are only served by the Weeton train anyway). Get off at Weeton, and leave the platform by walking down the ramp (not the steps) to the main road. Cross (be careful!) and go left about 30m to the crossroads. Turn right and head up the hill, following the road round a right bend to a t-junction. This is Huby village; turn left at the junction (where the church is), then take the next right up the slight hill. Follow this road for about 10-15 minutes, you'll see the crag on the top of the hill on your right. Don't piss off the farmer by approaching next to the farm, walk along the main road until you get to the gap in the stone wall in the corner of the field. Walk straight up to the crag from here, along the side of the field.
Almscliff is a good choice of venue when the weather looks dodgy, or it's been raining recently. It dries out incredibly quickly; as it sits on the top of a hill, it carries no drainage and there's usually a good breeze to dry out the crag (although it can be windy and cold in winter, take a down jacket!). The grading at Almscliff is rather severe (excuse the pun) as routes at Almscliff are usually short, pumpy outings with lots of rounded breaks to grapple with. However, there is an excellent section for beginners in the form of the Low Man slab, with about 7 or 8 routes from Diff to Severe.
There are several good, easy (Diff-Severe) lines on Low Man, especially Fluted Columns (VD), Stew Pot (HVD) and Pinnacle route (S), whilst at the other end of the scale the 3 classic harder routes of the crag (Western Front, The Big Greeny and Wall of Horrors) are amongst the best E3s in the UK. Other easier lines include Bird's Nest Crack (HS), well-protected but a bit of a thrutch up a wide crack system, and the various chimney lines dotted around the crag (South Chimney at Diff is a nice easy line, a good first lead). An oddity of a route, Square Chimney & Whisky Crack (MVS) is nonetheless a classic, requiring decidedly traditional techniques to overcome the lower section. However, VS is a grade where the crag really excels, with Pram Pusher's Paradise, Black Wall, Traditional Route, Crack of Doom and Central Climb all excellent lines. At HVS you get the famous Great Western (perhaps not worth the four stars that Yorkshire Gritstone gives it, but it's still an excellent route) as well as Birdlime Traverse and Demon Wall, and at the lower end of the E-grades there's Shuffle Crack, Z Climb Eliminate (E1) and Black Wall Eliminate (E2). As mentioned, the 'big three' of the crag are the E3s of Western Front, The Big Greeny and Wall of Horrors, ticking any of these is a major milestone in the climbing career of an LUUMC member. One member has gone down in club history for managing to onsight all three of these gritstone masterpieces on his first ever visit to Almscliff, having only been introduced to gritstone a weeks previously, although he had done 'a bit' of climbing before coming to Leeds! Another good E3 is Whisky Wall, although it has relatively easy climbing the protection is shockingly bad, a fall from most parts of the route will result in a ground fall after hitting the narrow ledge. Not for the faint hearted! If you're operating above E3, then there's the seldom-repeated E5s of China Syndrome, Megadoom, Orchrist and Wharfedale Wall.
Almscliff is one of the best bouldering venues in Yorkshire, and therefore one of the best in the country. There, I said it. There's loads of good stuff here, too much to list really. But I'll give it a go... if you're after easier stuff, then check out Morell's Wall (V2 6a) and Matterhorn Ridge (V0 5a, quite high but OK with pads and a spotter). There's a frustrating V1 on the small holds 4 metres left of Matterhorn Arete, and a fun V2/3 dyno on the block embedded into the wall below Low Man. Stuff on the High Man includes the Crucifix (V2 5c) and Crucifix Arete (V3 6a), also the start to the route 'Jacobs' ladder' at about V1/2. If you're strong then the Flying Aretes (both V3) are brilliant 'fun', especially when topping out. There's also a good load of easier problems on the boulders on either side of the path from the entrance to Low Man, use your imagination (or consult the guidebook) and get stuck in. Some of the faces can be made into great problems by eliminating certain holds. If you're after moderate and harder problems, check out the classics of Pebble Wall (V5), Sloper Patrol (V5), Syrett's Roof (V6), Demon Wall Roof (V7) and The Keel (V8/9). If you're into steep stuff then you'll wet yourself when you see the Virgin boulder, with problems from V3 to V14.
Please don't climb on the lone boulder in the centre of the field below Low Man, it's out of bounds!
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